Calibration Troubleshooting

If you are having trouble obtaining and accurate and repeatable calibrations from your M1 Caliber, please view the following guide which outlines several potential causes as well as solutions to ensure you are up and running as soon as possible.  The M1 Caliber encoder system is a precision integration that is designed to be robust and repeatable.  Performing a calibration correctly is essential for the M1 to translate rotary measurements from the wheel into linear measurements displayed on the screen.


1) Are you having trouble entering CAL mode?

Be sure to only hold the ZERO and the Blade button (left and center button) and press the power button once (while holding the other two).  You will see CAL appear on the screen.  Releasing the two buttons will display the ZERO screen and you are ready to begin the cal procedure. The power button only needs to be clicked once at the beginning of the procedure.





2) Is your wheel spinning freely?

A potential cause of the calibration being off by a very large margin (several inches) is the wheel itself not spinning.  To check, see if you can 'flick' your wheel (while it is not in contact with anything).  It should spin freely and move with minimal friction (some friction is normal as long as it generally moves freely). 


If the wheel does not spin at all, it may be caused by an obstruction caught in the wheel socket or that the screws are on too tight on the back. Begin by looking at the side profile of wheel to confirm it matches the image below (the wheel and arm are general parallel, no obstructions, gaps, or wheel misalignments visible).   


If everything seems correct, try taking off and remounting the wheel (following the procedure in this article).  When the wheel is removed, ensure the magnet is present, securely fastened, and not loose in the center of the wheel (silver cylinder shape). 



During reassembly, ensure the screws are installed the full depth and secured tightly (bit be careful not to over-tighten as this may damage the threads or cause the wheel to bind.


3) Are my marks clear and concise on the board?

If your calibration is off by small margins (1/4" or less), a potential cause may be the marks you make and cleaning touching off on the left side of the saw blade for the initial cut and the final alignment.



4) Are you calibrating using a flat (non-warped) board of material?

Using a generally flat and straight piece of material (of the same kind you plan to cut with the majority of the time) is essential to obtaining an accurate calibration.  Ensuring the material you are using is flat and straight allows the M1 to use the surface correctly in a straight line.


Using a warped, bent, or crooked piece of material can result in inaccuracies as the M1 will track over the peaks and the valleys which will not correlate as well to a tape measure (straight line measurement).   


5) Is the motion of the wood traveling smooth and in contact with the back of the fence the whole time and well supported on both sides?

Using a proper measuring technique and saw setup is also helpful for obtaining accurate results.  Material should be supported well on both sides to facility the sliding motion and user should keep material in contact with the rear of the fence the entire time.





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  • I recently get 2 M1, and one of them seems to have the wheel move more freely than the other one, and with the vibrations that make the saw, while changing angles, or simply starting the saw, the more sensitive M1 wheel, starts moving and changes the measure display, this is particularly annoying when tryin to set on zero and then moving the saw for an angle cut, is there’s a way to tighten more the wheel?, so it doesn’t move to much?

  • Hello Jose, thanks for reaching out.  It sounds like there might be a loose magnet in the wheel.  Please send us an email at and wed be happy to help get everything up and running! 

  • hello

    I get my M1 in 2021 for personal reasons i just opened today and tried to calibrate it, i follow the instructions ( hold the zero and blade buttons and then i press the power once and never show me the calibration mode, the screen is on but is completely black and when i release the two buttons the screen goes to 0 0.00

  • I purchased my m1 about 6 months ago and have just now mounted it to my new mitersaw, I have went through the calibration process several times and it always winds up being from to 3" off over 6', its always off the same amount, help

  • hey Tony, please send us an email at and we would be happy to help! 

  • Do I have to recalibrate when I change thickness of wood? Like going from 2" to 1" thickness


  • Hi Gerald, nope, only for different types of material (plastic vs pine, etc)

  • My calibration is incorrect. How do I reset the Reekon M1. I tried recalibration but will not go to Cal/zero. Took batteries out but still no help

  • Hi Larry, resets are not needed to perform calibration.  Are you sure you are entering calibration mode with the M1 turned off (wont work and enter the menu if it is on)

  • Okay I will try that. Should the wheel be up or down when I calibrate?

  • Hi Larry, the wheel is needed for the calibration when you slide the material

  • Okay I will try again



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